A Psychedelic Pajama Party: Paul Smith London Womens Autumn/Winter 2014
Paul Smith draws his inspiration from seemingly anywhere and everywhere— including his wallpaper. The London-based designer frequently channels a distinct ’60s vibe, with the music of the era forming a continuing theme that has previously exuded Jim Morrison, among others. For Autumn/Winter 2014, it’s Jimi Hendrix guiding the master tailor’s needle and thread, with a palette of mustard yellow, hot pink and cobalt blue coalescing into an expression of the psychedelic subculture of the period.
With garish hues and a playful use of classic pattern favorites—including damask jacquards, the perennial paisley and instantly recognizable strips of Persian rugs—the feel is delightfully campy. The addition of silky pajama-wear and dressing gowns to the collection, accessorized with an interchangeable pinstripe-jacket design, shows Smith’s cheeky, mischievous side.
Formal wear with single buttons, loose sleeves and open shoulders is a bold new direction for Smith. Indeed, this vector change is not without purpose: The collection’s stated design is to “deconstruct sartorial conventions, injecting femininity into tailored outerwear.” And a joyful deconstruction it is, with jumpsuits of hard and soft lines that defy expectations. The seizing of the masculine, immaculate tailoring and stoic palette—of which Smith himself is an outlet—is cleverly subverted while simultaneously playing on a strong sense nostalgia and an irresistible feeling of fun.