Technological Pragmatism with Luis Buchinho

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Portuguese fashion designer Luis Buchinho has always been ahead of his time. As one of the leading names in the still developing Portuguese fashion industry, Buchinho has been a constant presence in the scene since 1991 starting with Moda Lisboa. With over 20 years of industry experience, Buchinho has earned several recognitions along the way, including ‘Best Female Collection’ at Moda Lisboa in 1999 and the Globo de Ouro Portugal for Best Fashion Designer in 2012.

In honor of his latest Fall/Winter 2016 collection shown at Paris Fashion Week, we sat down with the designer to talk about his inspirations, how technology is changing fashion and what trend he is most excited about making a comeback. Read more below!

STEPHANIE: What was the inspiration behind your collection for Fall/Winter 2016?
LUIS BUCHINO: The whole collection was inspired by 3D puzzle pieces, using its shapes and ways of constructing a tridimensional form throughout them. These idea was used along the collection in prints, laser cuts and technical fabrics with a very small colour palette of black, grey, navy blue and white, emphasizing elaborate constructions.

How is Portugal's fashion scene different from Paris?
First of all, it is much more recent and less mainstream. It´s a sort of "niche". We are building a stronger identity, especially with the younger generation of designers, that can benefit from the experience of the older brands. Basically, I think we can say we are work in progress. Paris is not.

What is one distinguishing feature you look for when casting your models?
A confident attitude.

What is your favorite part of participating in Paris Fashion Week?
Being able to be next to names I find the best in the world

How do you feel that technology has influenced the industry?
A lot because more and more, the consumer wants really easy, basic shapes that are very easy to wear- and technology gives the new twist, in varied ways, to shapes that are so familiar to us all.

Who is the Luis Buchinho girl?
I don't think she´s a "girl", she´s more a woman who is confident, affirmative and pragmatic.

What trends are you most excited about this season?
I don´t find trends exciting at all. Nowadays, they are just a way to carry on with chain stores copies. I find the individual speech of a signature label who doesn't care at all with what´s hot or not the real turn on.

Where do you find your daily inspiration?
In everything around me, from the seaside to the Portuguese streets, a toy, a comics magazine to a conversation I can have with a friend. It doesn't really matter, I just have to have my eyes wide open.

What up and coming designer are you most excited about?
Iris van Herpen (maybe not up and coming, already established but my choice).

Are there any trends or styles that you’d like to make a comeback?
The 80´s are always in my heart, as I was a teen then.

If you can describe your brand in 3 words, what would they be?
Graphic- pragmatic- timeless. To learn more about Luis Buchino and Paris Fashion Week, tune into Inside Fashion Week episode 4 on August 1. Inside Fashion week airs every Monday.

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Stephanie Park
Stephanie  Park
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